IGlyceryl Glucoside imelela impumelelo kusayensi ye-skincare, ikakhulukazi endleleni eguqula ngayo ukugeleza kwesikhumba ezingeni lamaselula. Lesi sithako esisha sisebenza ngokuvuselela ngokuqondile ama-aquaporins—iziteshi zamaprotheni ezikhethekile ezisiza ukuthuthwa kwamanzi kuwo wonke ulwelwesi lwamaseli. Uma isetshenziswa ngokwezihloko, i-glyceryl glucoside ibophezela kuma-receptors athile eselula, icuphe inqwaba yamasiginali we-biochemical alawula ukubonakaliswa kwe-aquaporin-3 (AQP3) kuma-keratinocyte. Le nqubo yokwenza kusebenze inyusa ukuminyana kwalawa mashaneli ahambisa amanzi ngokufika ku-30%, ithuthukisa kakhulu ikhono lesikhumba lokuheha, ukuthutha, nokugcina umswakama kuzo zonke izingqimba ze-epidermal. Ngokungafani nama-humectants avamile asebenza ngokuyinhloko phezu kwesikhumba, i-glyceryl glucoside isebenza ezingeni elijulile lamaselula, ikhuthaza uhlelo lokulawula amanzi lwemvelo lwesikhumba ukuthi lusebenze kahle. Umphumela uba ukugeleza kwamanzi okujulile okubonakala njengesikhumba esibonakala siminyene, esikwazi ukuqina nokusebenza okuthuthukisiwe kwesithiyo. Lo mshini umele ushintsho lwepharadigm kubuchwepheshe bokuswakama, okunikeza indlela yokuphila ethe xaxa yokubhekana nokuphelelwa amanzi emzimbeni kanye nokugcina i-homeostasis yesikhumba.
Amanzi akha cishe amaphesenti angama-70 esikhumba esinempilo, okwenza ukugeleza kwamanzi okwanele kubalulekile ekugcineni ubuqotho besikhumba, ukunwebeka, kanye nokusebenza kwesithiyo. Kodwa-ke, izici eziningi-okuhlanganisa ukuguga, izingcindezi zemvelo, kanye nezithako ezithile zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba-zingaphazamisa le bhalansi yomswakama obucayi. Isayensi ye-skin hydration iye yavela ngokuphawulekayo emashumini eminyaka amuva nje, idlula izindlela ezilula ze-occlusive ne-humectant zokwamukela ama-molecule e-biomimetic asebenza nezindlela zemvelo zesikhumba.
Izithako ezijwayelekile zokuthambisa ngokuvamile zisebenza ngezindlela ezintathu eziyinhloko: ama-occlusive akha umgoqo ongokomzimba ukuvimbela ukulahlekelwa kwamanzi, ama-humectants adonsela amanzi ebusweni besikhumba, kanye nama-emollients abushelelezi isikhumba ngokugcwalisa izikhala phakathi kwamaseli. Nakuba zisebenza ngamazinga ahlukahlukene, lezi zindlela azikhulumi ngezinqubo ezibalulekile zamaselula ezilawula ukusatshalaliswa kwamanzi esikhumbeni.
I-stratum corneum—ungqimba olungaphandle lwesikhumba sethu—isebenza njengesithiyo esibalulekile esivimbela ukulahlekelwa kwamanzi amaningi kuyilapho ivikela kubahlaseli bangaphandle. Ukuze amanzi ageleze kahle, amanzi kufanele asatshalaliswe ngendlela efanele hhayi nje phezulu kodwa kuzo zonke izingqimba ze-epidermal. Le nselelo yokusabalalisa ilapho izinto zokuthambisa ezivamile ngokuvamile zingasebenzi kahle, ikakhulukazi ezimweni zokuphelelwa amanzi emzimbeni okungapheli noma umsebenzi wokuvinjelwa owenziwe ebucayini.
I-Glyceryl glucoside ingeyesigaba sezinhlanganisela ezaziwa ngokuthi ama-glycosides, ahlanganisa i-molecule kashukela (glucose) eboshelwe kwelinye iqembu elisebenzayo (glycerol). Lesi sakhiwo samangqamuzana esiyingqayizivele sihlanganisa izakhiwo ze-hydrophilic (ezokuthanda amanzi) kanye ne-lipophilic (ezokuthanda amafutha), ezivumela ukuthi zihlanganyele ngokuphumelelayo ngamanzi kanye nemvelo ecebile ye-lipid yesikhumba.
Isakhiwo senhlanganisela sinokubaluleka ngamakhono ayo okukhulisa umswakama. Ingxenye ye-glucose ibonisa amandla angavamile okubopha amanzi, ekwazi ukubamba izikhathi eziningana isisindo sayo emanzini. Phakathi naleso sikhathi, ingxenye ye-glycerol inikela ngezakhiwo ezengeziwe ze-humectant ngenkathi ithuthukisa ukungena ezingqimbeni ze-epidermal. Le ndlela yokwenza izinto ezimbili idala indlela ye-multidimensional to hydration edlula lokho okungafinyelelwa ama-moisturizers anomsebenzi owodwa.
Ucwaningo nge-glyceryl glucoside lubonise ubufakazi obuqinile bokusebenza kwayo ekuthuthukiseni ukugeleza kwesikhumba. Izivivinyo zemitholampilo zembule ukwanda okukhulu kwe-hydration, kukalwa ngamasu afana ne-corneometry kanye nokulahlekelwa kwamanzi e-transepidermal (TEWL). Ucwaningo olulodwa olunabahlanganyeli abangu-63 lubonise ukwanda kwe-42% ku-hydration ngemva kwamasonto amane okusebenzisa ukwakheka kwe-glyceryl glucoside engu-0.5%. Lo mphumela wagcinwa ngisho nangemva kwekhefu lamasonto amabili, okuphakamisa izinzuzo zesikhathi eside. Ukwengeza, ezimeni ezinomswakama ophansi, isikhumba esilashwe nge-glyceryl glucoside sigcine umswakama owengeziwe uma siqhathaniswa nesikhumba esingalashiwe kanye nesikhumba sendabuko esilashwe nge-humectant. Le miphumela igcizelela amandla ayo okubhekana nezinkinga ze-hydration ezingapheli futhi isebenze kahle ngaphansi kwengcindezi yemvelo.
Isici soguquko se i-glyceryl glucoside ilele ekhonweni layo lokuthonya ama-aquaporin—iziteshi zamanzi ezizinikele zemvelo ezisiza ukunyakaza kwamanzi okusheshayo, okukhethayo kuwo wonke ulwelwesi lwamangqamuzana. Ukuqonda lokhu kusebenzisana kudinga ukuhlola i-aquaporin biology nezindlela eziqondile i-glyceryl glucoside elungisa ngayo ukukhuluma nokusebenza kwayo.
Ama-Aquaporins, atholwe nguPeter Agre (Umklomelo weNobel ka-2003), angamaprotheni olwelwesi olula ukuthuthwa kwamanzi kuwo wonke ulwelwesi lwamaseli kulandela ama-osmotic gradients. Esikhumbeni somuntu, i-aquaporin-3 (AQP3) igcwele kakhulu ku-epidermis. I-AQP3 ayithuthi amanzi kuphela kodwa iphinde ithuthe i-glycerol nezinye izincibilikisi ezincane, edlala indima ebalulekile kukho kokubili ukugeleza kwamanzi kanye ne-lipid metabolism. Itholakala ikakhulukazi kuma-basal kanye ne-spinous layers, i-AQP3 isiza ukususa amanzi ku-dermis ukuya ku-epidermis, isekela imisebenzi yamangqamuzana esikhumba njengokwanda nokufuduka. Ucwaningo lukhombisa ukuthi ukungasebenzi kahle kwe-AQP3 kuxhumene nezimo zesikhumba ezifana ne-psoriasis ne-dermatitis. Ukwengeza, isisho se-AQP3 siyehla ngokuya ngeminyaka, sehle ngo-40% phakathi kweminyaka yobudala engama-20 nengama-60, okungase kube nomthelela ekomeni okwandayo kanye nokuphelelwa amanzi emzimbeni okubonwa esikhumbeni esiguga.
I-Glyceryl glucoside isebenzisana nama-aquaporin ngokusebenzisa indlela enezici eziningi. Uma isetshenziswa, ingena ku-stratum corneum futhi ifinyelele ku-epidermis esebenzayo, lapho ithinta ama-keratinocyte. Ithuthukisa umsebenzi we-aquaporin-3 (AQP3) ngokwandisa ukusho kofuzo, njengoba i-glyceryl glucoside yenza kusebenze izici zokuloba ezithuthukisa ukukhiqizwa kwe-AQP3 mRNA. Iphinde ithuthukise ukusebenza kwama-aquaporin akhona ngokusebenzisa i-phosphorylation, okwandisa ukungena kwamanzi. Ukwengeza, ikhuthaza ukushushumbiswa kwe-AQP3 kulwelwesi lwe-plasma, ikhulisa ukuminyana kweziteshi ezisebenzayo. I-Glyceryl glucoside isiza ukuzinzisa ukwakheka kwe-aquaporin ngaphansi kwezimo zengcindezi njengokuchayeka kwe-UV noma ukuvuvukala. Lezi zenzo zihlangene zithuthukisa ukugeleza kwamanzi ku-epidermis, okuholela ekufakweni okungcono kwesikhumba.
Ukusebenza kwe-glyceryl glucoside njenge-activator ye-aquaporin kuthonywa izici zokwakheka. Ibanga layo lokugxilisa ingqondo elilungile lingu-0.2-1.0%, ngokugxila okuphezulu okunganikezi izinzuzo ezinkulu. I-pH ekahle yokuzinza nokusebenza iphakathi kuka-5.0 no-6.5, okuhambisana ne-pH yemvelo yesikhumba. Amasistimu okulethwa afana nama-liposomes nama-nanoparticles athuthukisa ukungena nokukhululwa okuqhubekayo. Ukwengeza, ukuhambisana nezinye izithako kubalulekile—i-niacinamide ihambisana nemiphumela ye-glyceryl glucoside ngokuthuthukisa ukusebenza kwesithiyo, kuyilapho izithako ezine-asidi noma izinto ezifakwa emanzini ezinamandla zingase zinciphise ukusebenza kwayo ngokucekela phansi inhlanganisela noma ukuphazamisa indawo ezungezile yesikhumba.
Imboni ye-skincare sekuyisikhathi eside imemezela i-hyaluronic acid njengezinga legolide le-hydration. Kodwa-ke, njengoba ukuqonda kwethu i-physiology yesikhumba kuthuthuka, i-glyceryl glucoside ivela njengembangi efanelekile ebhekana nokugeleza kwamanzi ngezindlela ezihluke kakhulu—futhi ezingase zihambisane.
I-Hyaluronic acid ne-glyceryl glucoside zinikeza ukugeleza kwamanzi ngezindlela ezahlukene. I-Hyaluronic acid isebenza njenge-humectant, ibopha izikhathi ezifika ku-1,000 isisindo sayo emanzini, ikakhulukazi ifaka amanzi ebusweni besikhumba ngenxa yobukhulu bawo be-molecule. Ngokuphambene, i-glyceryl glucoside, enesisindo esincane samangqamuzana, ingena ezingqimbeni ezijulile futhi ithuthukise ukugeleza kwamanzi ngokuvula ama-aquaporin. Ngenkathi i-hyaluronic acid inikezela nge-hydration esheshayo ephela ngokushesha, i-glyceryl glucoside inikeza imiphumela ehlala njalo ngokunyusa ama-aquaporin, ukuthuthukisa ukugeleza kwamanzi ngokuhamba kwesikhathi. Ngokwezinzwa, i-hyaluronic acid inika umuzwa wokugcwala ngokushesha, kuyilapho i-glyceryl glucoside iletha ukuthuthukiswa okucashile, kodwa okusimeme ekunwebeni kwesikhumba kanye nokuqina.
Nakuba ukuthuthukiswa komswakama kusalokhu kuyisimangalo sakho esiyinhloko sodumo, ucwaningo lubonisa lokho i-glyceryl glucoside inikeza izinzuzo ezengeziwe ezidlulela ngale kwe-hydration elula. Esinye isici esiphawuleka ngokukhethekile sihilela ithonya layo ekubuyiseleni umsebenzi wezithiyo. Ucwaningo lubonisa ukuthi isikhumba esilashwe nge-glyceryl glucoside silulama ngokushesha kakhulu ekuphazanyisweni kwesithiyo, ngamavelu e-TEWL abuyela kusisekelo cishe ngama-30% ngokushesha kunesikhumba esingalashiwe.
I-Glyceryl glucoside ingase futhi ibonise izakhiwo ezithambile zokulwa nokuvuvukala ngokuguqulwa kwama-cytokines ane-proinflammatory. Ucwaningo lwe-in vitro lubonisa ukuncishiswa kokukhiqizwa kwe-IL-6 ne-TNF-α kuma-keratinocyte achayeka ekuvuvukeni lapho iphathwa kusengaphambili nge-glyceryl glucoside. Lokhu kuphakamisa izicelo ezingase zibe khona ezimweni zesikhumba ezizwelayo noma ezisebenzayo.
Mhlawumbe okuthakazelisa kakhulu, ubufakazi bokuqala bukhomba izinzuzo ezingaba khona ze-glyceryl glucoside zezingxenye ze-dermal matrix. Ucwaningo lwesiko lamaseli lukhombisa ukwanda kokukhiqizwa kohlobo lwe-collagen I kanye ne-elastin kuma-fibroblasts avezwe kunhlanganisela, ngokunokwenzeka ngokusebenzisa izindlela zokusayina ezingaqondile eziqalwa ama-keratinocyte anamanzi angcono. Lokhu kusikisela ezinzuzweni zokulwa nokuguga zesikhathi eside ezihambisana nemiphumela esheshayo yokufakwa kwamanzi emzimbeni.
Kunokuba babone i-glyceryl glucoside ne-hyaluronic acid njengezimbangi, abakhi bezinto manje bayazibona izinzuzo zokusebenzisa kokubili ezinhlelweni zokukhipha amanzi. I-Hyaluronic acid inikeza ukugeleza kwamanzi ngokushesha, kuyilapho i-glyceryl glucoside ithuthukisa ukuthuthwa kwamanzi kwangaphakathi. Ukuze uthole imiphumela emihle, ukubeka ukwakheka okusekelwe ku-glyceryl glucoside kuqala, kulandelwa ama-serum e-hyaluronic acid futhi kuphothulwe ngama-moisturizer e-emollient, kuthuthukisa ukugeleza kwamanzi. I-Glyceryl glucoside inenzuzo ikakhulukazi esikhumbeni esiphelelwe amanzi noma esivuthiwe, isekela umgoqo wesikhumba futhi ithuthukise ukusebenza kwe-aquaporin. Isiza futhi isikhumba esichayeke ezindaweni ezinomswakama omncane. Ukuze uthole izixazululo eziqondiwe, i-glyceryl glucoside ibalulekile ekunqandeni ukuguga, esikhumbeni esibucayi, kanye nemikhiqizo yokuvikela imvelo. Lapho ukwakheka, ukukuhlanganisa esigabeni samanzi esingaphansi kuka-40°C kulondoloza ukuzinza, futhi ukuhlanganisa nama-ceramides, i-cholesterol, ne-niacinamide kungakhuphula ukusebenza kahle.
Amandla oguquko we i-glyceryl glucoside kwisayensi ye-skincare isukela endleleni yayo eyingqayizivele yokukhipha amanzi emzimbeni—ukusebenza ngezinqubo zesikhumba ezingaphakathi kunokumane unikeze umswakama wangaphandle. Ngokuqondisa ngokuqondile ama-aquaporin, ibhekana nokugeleza kwamanzi ezingeni layo eliyisisekelo, okwenza ukuthutha nokusabalaliswa kwamanzi okuphumelelayo kuzo zonke izingqimba ze-epidermal.
Kubakhiqizi abafuna ukuthuthukisa izixazululo ze-hydration ezisebenza ngempela, i-glyceryl glucoside inikeza izinzuzo ezihlukile-ikakhulukazi uma ihlanganiswe ngobuhlakani nezithako ezihambisanayo ezinhlelweni zokubunjwa eziklanywe kahle. Ibanga layo lokugxilisa elisebenzayo eliphansi uma kuqhathaniswa (0.2-1.0%) liyenza ikwazi ukusebenza ngokwezomnotho ngisho nasekuhlanganiseni kweprimiyamu.
Njengoba ucwaningo luqhubeka nokwembula izinzuzo ezengeziwe kanye nezinhlelo zokulethwa ezilungile, indima ye-glyceryl glucoside ekunakekelweni kwesikhumba cishe izokhula ibe ngaphezu kwezinhlelo zokusebenza zamanje. Ezinkampanini ezinentshisekelo yokuhlanganisa lesi sithako esisha ekwakhiweni kwazo noma ukufunda okwengeziwe mayelana nezinhlelo ezingase zisetshenziswe, i-Guangzhou Harworld Life Sciences Co., Ltd inikeza ukusekelwa okuphelele kobuchwepheshe nezinto zokusetshenziswa zekhwalithi ephezulu. Ukuze uthole ulwazi olwengeziwe noma ukubonisana ngamasu okuhlanganisa, sicela uthinte admin@harworldbio.com.
1. Verkman AS, Mitra AK. Isakhiwo kanye nomsebenzi weziteshi zamanzi ze-aquaporin. I-American Journal of Physiology-Renal Physiology. 2018;276(1):F13-F28.
2. I-Bellemère G, i-Stamatas GN, i-Bruère V, i-Bertin C, i-Issachar N, i-Oddos T. Isenzo sokungagugi se-retinol: ukusuka kumangqamuzana ukuya emtholampilo. I-Skin Pharmacology kanye nePhysiology. 2019;22(4):200-209.
3. Hara-Chikuma M, Verkman AS. I-Aquaporin-3 isiza ukufuduka kwamaseli e-epidermal kanye nokwanda ngesikhathi sokuphulukiswa kwesilonda. Ijenali ye-Molecular Medicine. 2017;86(2):221-231.
4. Qin H, Zheng X, Zhong X, Shetty AK, Elias PM, Bollag WB. I-Aquaporin-3 kuma-keratinocyte nasesikhunjeni: indima yayo nokusebenzisana ne-phospholipase D2. Izingobo zomlando ze-Biochemistry kanye ne-Biophysics. 2019;508(2):138-143.
UNGATHANDA